Scotland Trip: Part 14

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Last days in Scotland

I returned to Edinburgh for a few days on my own, soaking up of the places and my experiences as much as I could since I knew my trip was coming to an end!

I visit Calton Hill, The Meadows, went to see a comedy show with my new friend Andrea, (we laughed so hard and bits we could not understand at all but we laughed anyway and also met some really nice guys hosting the show).
I also went back to more familiar places around the city.

Scotland feels like home to me and I will definitely go back.

Reluctantly, I took my flight back to Toronto filled with the hauntingly beautiful landscapes, architecture, charming, friendly folks and a wee dram of whisky etched in my mind! ( yes, I had a taste!)

I hope you enjoyed my travel diary and photos and I hope in some way this allowed me to take you along my journey and that it also gives you a little taste of Scotland!

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 14: Last Days in Edinburgh

Scotland Trip: Part 13

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September 11 (More of Oban)

Today is my last day in Oban so I decide to milk it for all I can.
Spending more time here since I was on Mull most of the time.
It’s now time to get more acquainted with this charming town on foot.
But I can’t seem to get away from being on a boat, so I take a short 1 hour tour of a seal colony not too far.

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 13: Oban

Scotland Trip: Part 12

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September 10 (Oban, Isle of Mull)

Today I am taking it a bit easy, as far as boat riding goes, so I trade in the boat for a bus tour of Mull.
I feel quite out of place though, where the crowd is mostly silver haired. Charming folks regardless.
I will be visiting a castle, Tobermory and listening to our tour guide on the local history of Mull.

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 12: Isle of Mull

Scotland Trip: Part 11

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September  8-9 (Oban, Isle of Mull, Iona, Staffa)

While in Glasgow, I decided I wanted to take a few day trips outside the city. I was a bit lost as to where I wanted to go, possibly back in the Highlands or south to Burns country.
I spent some time in the tourist bureau flipping through pamphlets and spontaneously picked an area and town then grabbed a bus ticket to Oban. This is also one area that I did not research before leaving Canada so everything about it was literally a new adventure.
As soon as I got out of the 3 hour bus ride here and stepped onto the pavement in Oban, I fell in love, well that may be a strong word but really felt at home, this is a very beautiful town and recommend it, also as they say it is the “Gateway to the isles”. I was originally going to stay one night here and the following nights in a small town on Mull, but people here said its best to stay here and just take day trips to the isles. I found a small tours office and booked a couple of day trips.
I walked around town, it is pretty windy, well it’s really not pretty, just bloody windy and cold. But that won’t put a damper on my happy mood. I am hungry so I stop at a really nice seafood restaurant. I chat up with some locals wondering where I am from and what brought me here, especially eating in a restaurant by myself and a town I know no one. I must say, it feels quite liberating to be on my own here. I am then invited for drinks later on by my new found friends. People are very charming here!

The photos below are from my first half day in Oban and my full day on isle of Mull, Iona and Staffa.

Links:

Click image or link to view Gallery in Picasa

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 11: Oban, Mull, Staffa, Iona

Scotland Trip: Part 10

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Monday September 7, 2009 (Glasgow), Sept 12, 13

Today, we decide to check out downtown Glasgow. We are on Buchanan street, the shopping haven of Glasgow. I couldn’t resist getting a few scottish CDs.  Check out Dougie Maclean’s site and Caledonia song.

While we’re speaking of music, here are more of my scottish/celtic favourites. Bodega (i think I mentioned them before), Peatbog faeries, Salsa Celtica, Julie Fowlis, Dàimh.

Back in Glasgow, I went to the Gallery of Modern Art. I was already impressed just by the architecture before I even stepped inside. I think I need more than a day to do a proper tour of this gallery.

On my many walks and sightseeing I found this great artstore across from the gallery. I felt like a child in a candy store.

Another thing I have to mention, the hostel I am staying at has wayyy too many stairs. Try lugging a suitcase or two around, it reminds me of the stairs you see at Hogwarts, going in all directions, but narrower. The stairs were not actually moving but they might as well have, it made my head spin. So, I decided to leave my big suitcase in a locker and just grab what I need for the night.

Check out the Youth Hostel. Other than the stairs, the staff and everything here was great and also cheaper than in Edinburgh. I stayed in Glasgow for 2 nights, and also while my cousin was settling into her new apartment. (Again, how lucky is she!)

I am heading out for a few days on my own (surprise!) then back in Glasgow on sept 12, where I continue to be enchanted by this city. Ok, not the same “enchanted” as I felt in the Highlands, but there’s so much Art here that I want to stay much longer! (I could really get used to living here as well).

We visited the Glasgow School of Art and did the tour as it was the only way to visit the inside. It is amazing to see the designs of Macintosh all around, even every tiny intricate details have a story behind it. I could spend days in this school and finding something new everytime. No photos were allowed inside though But you can check out this site for more photos. And, by the way, our tour guide was american. Decidedly not too many Scottish encounters on this vacation. hum!

We are in the west end, on University street and on a mission to find this restaurant for Tapas, where we can’t remember the name, well Cath can’t remember as I have no idea. Its not much help to ask people around either for a restaurant with no name and no street.
We walk on Byres road and Ashton Lane. Handsome folks are looking at us, we notice. We look at each other and laugh, we must look like a bunch of tired, lost foreign travelers, speaking french, who have no idea where we are or going. Yes, for once it is true. That’s what we are indeed and proud of it, and I think we are getting quite delirious with hunger too, which doesn’t help our cause. Boys will have to wait.
So, we finally decide that we may never find this place and our hunger could be heard blocks away so we settle for some chinese food. During our meal, this group arrived and Cath is also getting very annoyed with them. It is also beginning to bother me too. There is someone or rather a few people with extremely loud voices who can’t stop talking, laughing and shouting. This is a restaurant, not a bachelor party/bar. We can’t even hear our food, I mean, our own conversation!
Oh and the restaurant we were looking for was less than a block away from where we were (typical!). a little place called “Cafe Andaluz“. Next time we’ll go there.

We also stop at the Botanic Gardens where Cath is showing me the carnivorous plants. She is really into them, and they do look quite strange but really neat.

On my last day in Glasgow, we stopped at this nice café called “Offshore” mainly because our hostel guide is a also a photographer and mentioned some of his photographs are in the café’s basement gallery. Now that sounds just like my artsy kind of place.

Glasgow is a very cultural, artsy, funky city, much like Montreal. I loved it! and the people here are genuinely charming. Several times, people going about their day would stop just to say hello and ask how your day was. Very nice folks. (well, that’s if I understood the Glaswegian accent correctly?!)

Here’s a fun map of Glasgow.

Here are the Glasgow photos

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 10: Glasgow

Scotland Trip: Part 9

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Sunday, September 6th, (Edinburgh)

Today, we continu to walk around Old Town to the tail end of the Royal Mile and since its not raining, decide to go for a little hike on Holyrood Park to Arthur’s Seat. We managed to grab some great photos. Once on top though, it got pretty windy and little drizzle coming down so you guessed, we didn’t linger too much. On the way back the Royal mile we saw a parade, kilts and horses.

We headed for a bite to eat at Henderson’s, my new favourite vegetarian place. I have to say, I’m not really vegetarian, but I find that most places that cater to vegetarians and vegans, tend to have more food that I can handle or at least these places are usually more friendly to people with food allergies/sensitivies. Check out their spot if you ever go to Edinburgh. I think they also have music or poetry nights.

We then grabbed our suitcases and bags and took the bus to Glasgow in late afternoon. Quite a short ride it was. We arrived at the youth hostel, checked in, then out next door for a little dinner. It was getting dark but I decided to go for a little stroll. I walked one block, then two, turned a corner and boom, smack in front of a fox, staring at me with a “duh! whatcha doing here?”. Lets say I got a bit scared (its not something I’m used to seeing in a city, raccoons, yes, but not a fox) so I said a quick shy Hellooo! and gently turned around. Luckily, the hostel guide says they are pretty much an occurrence here but harmless. Good to know but did not want to tempt faith a second time.

Enjoy the photos!

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 9: More more Edinburgh

Scotland Trip: Part 8

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Saturday, September 5th, (Braemar Highland Games)

Today I am off with my cousin, to see the Highland Games. When in Scotland, this was one event I really should see, at least once.
We are up early to catch our bus tour, luckily just around the corner from our hostel.
Our guide also introduces us to Scottish music. We listened to the “Red Hot Chilli Pipers”, “Dougie MacLean” and I fall in love with his song ‘Caledonia’. so here is one CD I will buy before leaving!

We met the Queen and Prince Charles.

ok, not really. We saw them drive by in their car to go see the games. I was also surprised that there were little kids, boys and girls, playing bagpipes. I imagine they must have lungs of steel or something. It was just nice to see young and old playing together and bridging the generation gap through music.

The games were actually a bit hard to follow, something was going on in every parts of the field that you focused here and there. We were also lucky, this nice couple, gave us their tickets to sit closer to the field. I think those tickets were 20 quid each, (like 40$), quite a lot for a few hours. But then again, I would pay that and probably more to see my favourite band!

Dancers, jumpers, tug of war, tree pole throwing by big guys (not sure how you actually call it!) as well as runners going around and around the field. It was like a mini olympics. and of courses we got an eye and ear full of kilts! and bagpipes yeah!

Enjoy the pictures!

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 8: Braemar Highland Games

Scotland Trip: Part 7

Back to Scotland Trip 2009
September 2, 2009 (Back In Edinburgh)

Ah! but you say, “what happened between August 22, where I left off my my previous journal and now?…well… I had a mini vacation within my vacation. Soaking up the sun and beach in the south of France… Journals and photos of that trip coming soon!

On sunday the 23rd, we checked out of our nice apartment in Edinburgh, stopped in Livingston for shopping. I haven’t seen a more humongous shopping mall. Actually it was a mall attached to mall, attached to another mall and so on. Anyhow, I had to buy a new bigger suitcase, and thanks to Cheryl, found a nice Bench jacket, the ones where the sleeves are long and a hole for your thumb. You can check it out at Bench . I just love it!

Then, we finally drove off to Manchester. The next morning, quite early I should say, and huge thank yous for Chris for driving me to the airport to catch my flight to Nice.

Now back to Scotland…

Today, I am now on my own, having left my wonderful travel buddies, Chris and Cheryl in Manchester.

And also more energized after relaxing by the beach for a week I am up to continue on…

Coming back to Edinburgh was like coming back home but staying in a hostel reminds me that I am still traveling and living out of a suitcase.

I spent a few days walking around the city, taking more pictures now that the rain had finally subsided a bit.
I found another great Turkish restaurant. ( I seem to be drawn to this cuisine more than others. Probably because there are more items on the menus that I can eat other than my fave baked potatoes!)
My very lucky cousin Cath is working in Glasgow for a school term and I am glad to reconnect with her while traveling. She meets me here so we can spend the weekend exploring together… (you can check out her blog here: cathfleur

We enjoyed the nice dramatic sky of dusk in Edinburgh, grab more photos and retire to our hostel for an early night in as we are off bright and early tomorrow for a more tradional Scottish adventure…

Stay tuned!

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 7: More of Edinburgh to enjoy!

Scotland Trip: Part 6

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Saturday, August 22, 2009 (Rosslyn Chapel)

Today, we are off to Roslin, to visit Rosslyn Chapel.
A little about it: Rosslyn chapel’s construction began in 1446 and even today evokes wonder and curiosity with its intricate design and extravagance stoneworks. It has a very rich history and I much enjoyed this visit as well as the passion and dedication of the people taking care of it.

Do visit their website and check out the History section here at Rosslynchapel.org.uk or http://www.rosslynchapel.org.uk/timeline.php
It also had very influential visitors such as Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth II as well as the poet Robert Burns visiting the area.

The use of the chapel as a location in “The Da Vinci Code” movie greatly increased the number of visitors to this village and chapel and this in turn helped with its restoration cost as well as donations and grants.

Unfortunately, we are unable to take photographs indoors but I did buy a postcard so will scan that as soon as I can. You can see from the photos that the entire outside chapel is covered. This is to protect the roof from further damage from the elements and also while it is being restored.

Here is another link for more info on the Chapel where you can see more pictures.

“The Apprentice Pillar”

“One element (of the chapel) particularly stands out. At the meeting of the South Aisle and the Lady Chapel is the stunningly carved pillar known as the apprentice pillar. It is said that the master mason was instructed by Sir William St Clair to build a pillar to match a drawing he had provided. The master mason went to Italy to study the original, and in his absence an apprentice (inspired by a dream) produced the magnificent pillar on view today. The story does not have a happy ending: the master mason was so consumed with envy on his return that he killed the apprentice with a blow from his mallet. The mason and the apprentice are believed to have inspired two of the gargoyles in the chapel…”

source from: http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/roslin/rosslynchapel/

“Ears of Corn”

“…If Rosslyn Chapel’s sheer beauty has served to attract visitors from around the world, so has the aura of mystery and legend that surrounds it. One popular story is that Sir William St Clair’s grandfather, Henry Sinclair, was part of an expedition which reached Nova Scotia in 1398, and this is supported by carvings in the chapel of Indian corn (Maize), unknown in Europe at the time of its building.” (as America was discovered by Columbus in 1492, almost 50 years after Rosslyn Chapel was built and corn was not cultivated in Europe for quite some time afterwards).

source from: http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/roslin/rosslynchapel/

“Templar and Masonic connections”

It is also featured in speculative theories regarding Freemasonry and The Knights Templar.

“Green Men”

Another notable feature of Rosslyn’s architecture is the presence of ‘Green Men’. These are carvings of human faces with greenery all around them, often growing out of their mouths. They are commonly thought to be a symbol of rebirth or fertility, pre-Christian in origin.

source from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosslyn_Chapel


After our wonderful visit of the chapel we are off for a mini trek around the Roslin castle area and follow a path in the woods along a small river.
Roslin Castle, is a partially ruined castle near the village of Roslin. It is located around 9 miles south of Edinburgh, on the north bank of the North Esk only a few hundred metres from the famous Rosslyn Chapel.

A few more photo ops then we leave Roslin and its mystical surroundings …

We are meeting with a friend of Chris in Linlithgow (this is also the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots), and stop at his restaurant “Epulum” for a late lunch (excellent food too!). Afterwards we walk a bit around the town and see the Linlithgow Palace, where of course, I take more pictures. It is a very charming town (ie. I am inspired to paint!) and on my next Scotland visit would spend a bit more time here.
In early evening we return to Edinburgh to attend another great Fringe comedy show and then finally stop to eat at a nice Turkish restaurant.

The next morning, we are leaving our Edinburgh apartment and are off to Manchester where our trip together ends. but not for me, I am continuing on my travels…

I am off to Nice, France in the morning of the 24th for a nice long relaxing week before I return to Scotland for another 2 weeks of fun exploring more of the beauty of Scotland.

Many thanks to Chris and Cheryl for making this part of my trip very memorable, for sharing laughs and being the best travel buddies!

Here are some photos of Roslyn Chapel and our day trip

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 6: Rosslyn Chapel

Scotland Trip: Part 5

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Friday, August 21, 2009 (St Andrews)

Today we are venturing to the east coast of Fife to St Andrews, home of Golf! (unfortunately I don’t play it). We parked a bit away from the town centre, since parking was very difficult to find and we wanted to get closer to the Cathedral. But this allowed us the pleasure of walking along the beach.

We strolled around and enjoyed the architecture as usual, and as we walked into town we noticed a much larger population of retirees than any other towns we visited. We could see why as it is simply beautiful and very relaxing plance. I love it here!

We walked passed the school of St Andrews (the oldest in Scotland was founded in 1413) and I daydreamed what it would be like to study here. Just a little.  Also being here during lunch time, the main streets were packed full of students it really did feel like Hogwarts!

We walked passed St-Andrews castle, and as it is situated on a cliff-top, the scenery begged to be photographed, so we obliged. There was also a wedding that day in the castle ruin. What an enchanting setting!

We then visit St Andrew’s Cathedral. There was a gallery section where we could see some old Pictish designs in stone. I am mesmerized by the intricate carvings. We also saw the St Andrews Sarcophagus.

We then climbed the St Rules Church tower to see the magnificent views around us.

Here is another link to check out: St Andrew’s Cathedral.


excerpt from Historic Scotland website:

St Rule’s Tower

St Rule’s Church, with its 33m tower, was probably built around 1130 as the first place of worship for the newly-arrived Augustinian canons. This Continental priestly order supplanted the Culdees, a Celtic monastic order that had been present on the site for centuries. The lofty tower may have been a beacon for pilgrims heading for the shrine of St Andrew.


In the evening, we returned to Edinburgh and went to see Andrew Maxwell, a very funny comic from Ireland.


Here are some photos of our day trip to St-Andrews

Scotland Trip 09 – Part 5: St-Andrews
Art by Mélanie Sánchez